SEMEL
My middle school was located in the heart of Siena, and commuting from the countryside was quite an adventure. My mom drove me from our home to the public bus stop; the bus took me to the town’s periphery; and from there I walked about 2 kilometers to my destination.
My backpack was loaded with books, diaries, and pencils, but there was always room for my unforgettable, tasty breakfast! Most of my friends brought their homemade panino, but, for me, it was a treat to stop at a little bottega halfway through the walk and get a fresh, fragrant and appetizing semel with prosciutto ham.
A semel is more than a panino; it is a softer and more delicate bread, round-shaped with a cut in the middle, suggestively referred to as a passerina in certain areas of Tuscany. When I revisit these teenage memories, I see myself meticulously organizing the shelf under my school desk and placing the precious paper bag in the best strategic position, enabling me to sneak a few bites of my sacred snack—seeking comfort and testing my survival skills.
Semel indeed has no tables, only a couple of stools on the side. It is a tiny place in Piazza Ghiberti, the piazza of the colorful market of Sant Ambrogio.
When I first heard about a new panino bar in Florence called Semel, I had to check it out. But I certainly didn’t expect to leave this little bar completely enraptured. Semel quickly became my favorite place to have lunch when I could satisfy my appetite without lounging too long around a set table. And indeed Semel has no tables, only a couple of stools off to the side. Semel is nestled in Piazza Ghiberti, which houses the colorful market of Sant’Ambrogio.
It would be hard to find it unless you asked yourself, “What’s going on there, along the sidewalk? Who are those groups of people with a glass of wine in one hand and a wrapped panino in the other, all engaged in lively conversation, exchanging impressions about their respective snacks?” Marco, the owner, always elegantly dressed and with a welcoming smile hidden beneath his white beard, patiently takes orders without missing a beat.
With a kindness that mirrors his uncle’s, Niccolo stuffs the bread with the various combinations du jour. There are six choices, and they change daily. Some are classics and fairly “safe,” like the pear, pecorino and truffle; salami and figs; and the anchovies with orange. Others are bold and daring, made up of a range of unexpected ingredients, such as donkey meat.
Semel has become a destination we eagerly return to again and again.
Living in New York City, my daughter and I are always exposed to new waves of street food experiences, but Semel has quickly become our go-to place. If the fabulous paninos are the main attraction, the conviviality of the place is a close second.
It is striking how the warm, organic atmosphere brings together affectionate locals and occasional tourists. Gemmarosa and I pleasantly swing between both groups. Semel is open from 11:00 AM to 3:00 PM. For 5 dollars you get a sandwich and a glass of wine. (Water is less prevalent.) Kindness is priceless.
